Slow travel: Tiree

1st-9th June 2026

A short blog about my recent trip to Tiree with some travel details. Photos are on Bluesky: amythebirder.bsky.social and are linked to in the blog (or via search which only works if logged into Bluesky). Also linked to websites which may be of interest if planning a similar trip, including Train Split which I find useful for finding and booking the best price train ticket. The tickets are also all e-tickets (regardless of destination unless you request paper tickets) and digital PlusBus is available via Train Split.

In theory I am slowly working my way around the Hebrides / Scottish islands but decided to return to Tiree this year after enjoying the previous two visits. The dates were planned before applying for an online distance learning masters (in GISc) but being a fully remote course I could just bring my laptop with me! It was still a lovely change of scene and break from (paid) work.

Day 1: Travel north

A nice straightforward train journey to London Waterloo with plenty of time to spare for travelling across to Euston. Not being a fan of the underground, especially when dressed for the final destination, I opted for travelling overground via Pedal.me who take passengers as well as cargo. This was very enjoyable and the first time I've been a passenger in a cargo bike!

We reached Euston in time for the Highland sleeper train but this time I'd opted for the Lowland sleeper which departs closer to midnight (boarding is after 2200). The latter has slightly lower cost cabins and in theory you arrive in Glasgow in time for the same train to Oban...

Day 2: More travelling and Oban

Much to my surprise, I was woken at 0440 by train staff who explained that an engine fault meant the sleeper train was in fact still at Euston but there was a train to Glasgow departing at 0531. As this resulted in a delay of over 2 hours, a full refund was arranged automatically and there was no extra cost for the other train.

After some initial confusion (why haven't we woken up in Scotland?!), I realised the first task was to sort out accommodation in Oban. Oban can be very busy in June so it was a relief to find Kilchrenan House which I've previously stayed in had space. Next step was to reschedule the ferry (thankfully easy as a foot passenger) as I'd travelled between Glasgow and Oban enough to know I was now unlikely to arrive in Oban before 1500. With those tasks complete, it was just a case of getting ready, hurriedly packing, rushing over to platform 6, and jumping on a different train. Once on the train I informed Alison & David at the B&B I was likely to arrive in Tiree a day late and turned on the headphones.

Arriving in Glasgow at c. 1045 (about 3h 15 later than planned), I confirmed my suspicions that neither the next coach or train to Oban arrived in time for the ferry to Coll & Tiree. Having spent half the delay repay on accommodation I didn't fancy attempting to find a taxi driver willing to drive around 100 miles (each way) so grumbled and waited for the 1220 CityLink coach. Both the train and coach provide lovely views of Loch Lomond along the route, and I've previously seen Red Squirrels from the coach.

The coach (& train) arrived half an hour after the ferry departed which is frustrating, but all you can do is embrace the extra time in Oban. It was already after check-in time so I could drop off the rucksack before exploring. Oban has plenty of options for food and walking, including panoramic views from Mcraig's Tower and of course the Black Guillemots in the bay.

[The journey we were hoping to do: a previously seamless journey north in 2024 and in 2025 to Lismore]

Day 3: Ferry & Tiree

An early start for the 0700 ferry. The friendly ferry staff helped sort out my ticket which hadn't updated with the new ferry time, and after picking up breakfast from the canteen, I joined the few keen people outside on the soggy upper deck. By the last hour there was just myself and another birder braving the chilly breeze and rain. Didn't see as much on this ferry crossing but enjoyed the birdy-er sea than the Solent including Puffins! Tiree has a private hire mini bus run by Angus John who dropped me off at Mannal.

Days 4-7: Tiree

I wasn't organised enough to arrange transport on the island this time but Mannal and areas within walking distance are interesting, plus seawatching here is significantly better than the Solent! However, as luck would have it I wasn't the only birder staying at the B&B and Jean was happy to have company birding. We mainly explored further during the mornings, returning for quieter afternoons and evenings which suited me and ensured there was time to study. Breakfast time included interesting conversations with the other guests and the hosts such as places to visit on the island. Binoculars were also essential as the main room has excellent sea views and one conversation was interrupted by seals!

Outings included visiting Loch a' Phuill where 2 Gadwall (scarce here) were noted, a Kestrel (also scarce) near Caolas, Little Terns feeding in Gott Bay and various enjoyable beach walks. We also had an unsuccessful evening trip to John Bowler's garden to dip a Red-breasted Flycatcher he'd found earlier but did hear the only Cuckoo of the trip and a few other species. Breeding wading birds seemed to be almost everywhere. There's so much more to explore but that can wait for another time!

It's always interesting to visit the Heritage Centres or museums on the islands and Tiree was no exception. Finally, on Sunday Jean and I visited Hynish for delicious lunch (also lovely views) the bookshop, and a little birding. The Farmhouse café at Balemartine is also good, as is Chocolate and Charms in Heylipol, Hebridean Roast in Scarinish (and more).

In Mannal I enjoyed the fact that I could hear Corncrakes while trying to get my head round R and pause for seawatches which made a good break from screen time. Each time I looked outside there was a near constant movement of Manx Shearwaters, auks (mainly Guillemot & Razorbill) and Gannets. Also noted occasional Fulmar, Great & Arctic Skuas and feeding Little and Arctic Terns. The terns were breeding near by with the Arctic Tern colony practically next door! That did mean any attempts to walk to Hynish along the single track road - no matter how careful - resulted in being dive bombed by terns. They resettled quickly each time but I gave up in the end and only visited Hynish once. Some evenings a smart Great Northern Diver was present in the bay and a pair of Common Sandpiper plus a few migrating waders. During previous trips I've also enjoyed cetaceans including Minke Whale, Basking Sharks and Otters from Mannal but sadly wasn't to be this time.

The other highlight for me was how peaceful it was. The level of quiet you rarely get in built up areas because of cars and other noise pollution we're forced to accept as "normal". There are cars on Tiree but in significantly lower numbers and almost entirely single track roads. Instead you hear the wind, waves and wildlife (and sheep & cows). Weather was cool - temperatures and windchill meant fleece and windproof jacket were essential but it's much easier to layer up than try to stay cool. I much prefer this weather to the hotter days down south. Wind also meant no midges which was lovely.

Bluesky photos: Mannal, Hynish, Common Milkwort, Puss Moth, Tràigh Bhì (& Garden Chafer thanks to JB & others for the ID), Caolas, Tràigh Shathalum, Balemartine Highland Cows, Mannal again.

Day 8: Tiree & travel south

Sadly Monday arrived and it was time to leave. The ferry crossing was ok though few cetaceans again. This time it was dry which made staying on the upper deck more pleasant. There were more Puffins between Coll and Tiree and good numbers of Kittiwakes especially in the Sound of Mull. We arrived in Oban at around 1500 and made use of the Left Luggage lockers in the North Pier (they run boat trips too). Feeling tired after inadvertently staying awake for all daylight hours on Tiree, I gave the hills a miss this time and wandered along the seafront until it was time for the 2036 to Crianlarich. As Tiree and Oban were breezy, I'd nearly avoided the midges except for the final ten minutes at a very calm Crianlarich. Thankfully the sleeper train arrived allowing me to escape midges once more!

Day 9: Travel south

I awoke in Crewe, relieved that there hadn't been any disruption. The sleeper train continued its journey to London Euston, with breakfast served at 0700. We arrived an hour later to a very busy station full of commuters... such a contrast from Tiree! I'd also planned to return to Waterloo with Pedal.me which was still enjoyable despite the busier roads. The 0909 back to Hampshire was on time too and then all that was left was a bus home.