Seasoned

The same ocean waves that strike fear in the average person, stirs up excitement within the seasoned surfer. Even inexperienced surfers, having tasted the elements, retain a greater understanding (respect) of the danger before them. This while standing on shore, having that internal debate between ego and self-preservation.

So what makes a seasoned surfer... seasoned?

In short - having been tried and tested, over time, in the wild and various conditions of the ocean.
And lived.

From my decades of surfing multiple locations and conditions, here are some lessons I've learned:

• Don't give up. Breakthroughs only happen when I keep pushing.
  
• Respect the Ocean. Everyone out there learns this lesson whether they want to or not. The ocean takes care of itself.
  
• Fear is healthy and normal. But listen to it. There are times to push and times to restrain. Know your limits and understand the risks. When in doubt, see previous lesson.
  
• Understand the ecosystem. Learn about swells, tides, currents, wind, and basic concepts of oceanography and meteorology.
  
• Consistency breeds capabilities. Muscles and muscle-memory develop over time. The longer the gaps between sessions, the longer it takes to return to form and progress..
  
• Stretch + live healthy. Do I need to explain this?
  
• The more seasoned and skilled I become, the greater degree of enjoyment I get from the sport and lifestyle.
  
• Practice and develop the spirit of aloha. Let sessions be saturated with gratitude and praise to The Almighty Creator.
  
• It's never enough. As the saying goes: "Only a surfer knows the feeling".
  

As one might guess, many of these principles could easily apply to multiple endeavors.

Chase your passion.

Here's to seasoned individuals everywhere.

13/100