Face down report

Qoheleth is currently taking a snorkeling holiday in paradise. So here are the snorkel reports while I’m enjoying this adventure. I’ll attempt to update, but it’s not my biggest priority while traveling.

11 Saturday
Arrive. Travel was good/uneventful. Check in. Walk beach path. Just touched feet to water once. Dinner. Bed early.
12 Sunday
Morning Poolenalena beach. Saw 5-6 turtles {I’ll keep a sum total in brackets}. One can almost always count on good snorkeling at this beach, and always a good showing of sea turtles. Very good for first day, first water entry. We swam out to point and joined 2 Turtle Town boats that park here. You always see multiple turtles here. It’s pretty awesome and a great place to start.
13 Monday
Morning Went to Ahihi Bay Reserve. This has a new parking lot annd some guides, and you pay to park and use the fish reserve. Walk out on lava. It is a difficult entry and exit. However it’s beautiful. Lots of sea life. We were almost alone at start but, by the time we stopped, there were lots of people here. Saw 1 turtle {Total: 7}.
Afternoon. Went to beach by Wailea Beach resort in North side. Ulua Beach. Good coral. Saw a Sting Ray nearby just out farther. He was just hanging out past where we were looking at coral. I didn’t want to get closer. When heading back, we got caught in surf and rocks and washed around in some rough surf. We just got too close in and we did not pay enough attention to where we were. We needed to swim farther out and then swim south to get to beach. Instead we swam south but the current moved us in. It was a tough swim out of that.
Evening we had dinner at new Kihei location of Cool Cat.
14 Tuesday
No snorkel. (Changing hotels). Hung out at pool till time to check out. Went to Costco and then checked into new hotel and settled in.
15 Wednesday
Morning walk. Then Morning at Kahekili beach right by Nanea. Saw 1 turtle {Total: 8}. Mrs. Qoheleth spotted an eel and pointed it out to me. Good coral here and pretty when sun shines through. A little murky and windy though, annd the sea was bouncy (Better to get earlier start. We will save that walk for afternoon when it’s windy anyway).
Afternoon: wind was picking up. No snorkel.
16 Thursday
Pineapple tour day. A front seems to be moving in and the weather looked suboptimal so we have a pineapple tour this afternoon
17 Friday
Morning: Face down right out front of our hotel (Kahekili) by 8 am. Long snorkel. Sun really good on coral. Saw 8 Turtles {Total: 16} (It’s possible we counted 2 turtles twice that we saw swimming out and then again swimming back). There were two rather large turtles feeding near bottom (but it’s not deep here), and there were two young turtles very actively swimming almost like they are entertaining the crowds. Turtles at this beach are almost as guaranteed as at Poolenlena. After snorkeling, we stayed until 1 sitting, reading, napping, sunning, and floating some. A large pod of dolphins swam by us about 300 yards off shore jumping and occasionally spinning. Perhaps they were feeding as they swam north past us and then returned again on their way south.
18 Saturday
Slow morning as rain came and went. Eventually we went for a vacation triathlon: walk, swim (snorkel) and bike (exercise bike in gym). Triathlon stage 1: Walk. Walked beach in other (north) direction. Went as far as we could go on the beach. From where we ended, we could just see Napili bay around corner (another good swimming and snorkeling location we have not yet explored on this trip). Triathlon stage 2: Swim. Went to right here to Kahekili beach to sun and read and etc. It really is nice to have a nice beach right outside your door. Eventually went snorkeling. It was an 8 turtle day {Total: 24}. Two young turtles just playing. Then we swam on and saw more; some of them on the swim back. Also we saw a Sting Ray not far off shore right in front of Kahanapali Ocean Resort. Just as when we sat the ray before, I didn’t want to get closer. At one point he went after something (like a fish or something he was hunting). Fast like lightning. It appeared that he got it. It was a blink and miss it dart. Wow. When we swam back we saw more turtles. At one point we were watching one turtle and I realized there was another right below me. They really like this beach and there are lots of them around here I guess because of the nice coral. Triathlon stage 3: Bike. After swimming we had a (stationary) bike ride in the gym to complete the vacation triathlon; a full day.
19 Sunday
Morning. We are again expecting slightly unsettled weather later in the day, so we did an early, pre-breakfast snorkel. Although we really don’t look at clocks here much, I think about 8:30-9:30. Right here again on Kahekili beach. Easy in/out and coral right from the start. It was beautiful, sunny and calm. We saw three turtles {Total: 27}: one large one on the sandy bottom parked in his garage right below some rocks. He didn’t move much and we did not know how long until he would need air, so we continued on. We saw one other on bottom moving around. Found him from a group of 4 people gathered around. Watched him a while. We continued to swim and look at coral and fish for quite a while. We saw, and Mrs. Qoheleth stopped and asked me about what appeared to be air bubbles coming up — randomly — from corals. Lots of these air bubbles, and large continuous flows of them. There was a particularly heavy amount when Mrs. Qoheleth asked me about them. It’s a mystery as to the cause. It did seem to be in a sunny spot, and we had seen this for a while before she asked — in sunny locations I think. So, I’m guessing the sun is warming the corals, and something is expanding, and this is just releasing the air they generate? I really have no idea, but there was a lot of this that we saw. So, morning and sunny makes me think of the warming up hypothesis. After swimming for quite a while, we turned around and on the way to getting out, we saw one more turtle really close in to shore.
No more snorkeling this day. Perhaps we are learning to relax.
One more note about Sunday. I cannot believe that the Broncos pulled out that 33-32 win over the NY Giants. It’s nice to win when you really only showed up (offense especially) for 1 quarter of the game. I think my daughter lost her mind. But it’s a win (lost minds over Bronco losses are worse).
20 Monday
Morning. We decided to do a hike today. We hiked the old Kapalua golf course in the mountains. Wow. I really want to know how long ago it closed. The cart paths are mostly still pretty in tact, but the greens are so overgrown that one can hardly recognize it as a golf course. Also, way up hill. It’s kinda of hard to believe that was a golf course with the steeps. That was fun and interesting, and it took the whole morning.
Afternoon. While we were still out and in the area, we drove around Kapalua, and looked for a place to beach and swim. D.T. Fleming beach park, but it just didn’t look inviting (it’s kind of the wrong time of day). We drove down to Kahana, and went to one we know is a nice beach. Napili beach. It’s very small, but nice sand; a nice protected cove, and we’ve had good snorkels there in the past. Parking can be trouble. But we did find parking, and we took umbrellas, snorkel gear and stuff with us and found a place on the sand. Ate our snack. Then we decided to snorkel. We went out in the bay and went to the sound end. Very rough surf, very unclear water, and not good. Then we went to the north end of the beach. Very nice. There are some rocks to navigate around getting out to the north end, and then along the shore of the north end - out as far as we want to go it was clear and nice. It took a while, but then there he was. The largest turtle we may have seen this tip {Total: 28}. He was in a shallows up by shore, and at first it was just Mrs. Qoheleth and I. The turtle swam straight toward us. I moved, and Mrs. Qoheleth was sort of stuck. He just swam right below her. She just floated and let him pass. So then we just hung around for a while watching this turtle. After just a short while it was 6 of us watching him. They really are glorious. After we had had our fill, we came to shore and came home. Another very good day snorkeling in paradise.
21 Tuesday
We slept in and took a slow start. Another sign we are mellowing, I guess. But a slow day eating breakfast on the lanai is just kinda nice. While sitting there and discussing places we haven’t yet snorkeled, we used the Google machine (actually Duck Duck Go because Mrs. Qoheleth hates the all knowing Google), we perused around and ended up booking a tour snorkel to the island of Lanai. They say they’ll take us to the Pineapple Isle’s best snorkeling spots and “maybe we will see dolphins.” I look forward to reporting on that on a later day. We also decided we have driven 100 times past Mile Marker 14. So we piled it all in the car, and right now we are sitting under the umbrella on the beach. We just ate, and we are waiting for high tide (MM14, we are told, can be shallow at low tide — we are close enough, just enjoying the sun and waiting to jump in). I guess it’s a Tuesday. Often this beach is full. But we found parking and we are watching what looked like retired Hawaiians enjoying the beach. I can see boats heading to Molokini or heading back, and it looks quiet and calm. I look forward to finishing this thought a little later …. So, we were a little disappointed in MM14. Maybe conditions were not right. There certainly was far fewer cars here this time of day (2:30-2:00 on) than at other times when we have passed by here. It was easy in/out and shallow with rocks and some coral. Perhaps we didn’t know where to swim to? It was ok. Lots of algae so I think maybe there could by many turtles here sometimes. We did see one turtle {Total: 29} as we entered (I had already spotted him while we were sunning/reading), and he didn’t move very far just stayed near shore. I could see how shallows could be a problem at times. I can also see how when tides are right and sun is shining, it might make visibility and clarity really cool. I guess a secret of living here is how to know just where is going to have right conditions at a given time.
Tomorrow we are going south — to Poolenalena beach again. Will have to get up and go as it’s a drive from here. We will probably try to visit several South Maui beaches while we are there. Tonight I’m hot tubing and Mrs Qoheleth is going to exercise. We will meet for dinner.
22 Wednesday
We decided we would spend the morning, perhaps the day, at Mrs. Qoheleth’s favorite: Poolenalena. Sine we are in West Paradise, we cooked breakfast to get early start on drive to South Paradise. And we packed snacks. If we stay all fair I guess we will buy lunch. So I’m sitting here writing on the beach after first swim/snorkel. It was a 9 turtle swim {Total: 38}. We saw one on the way out to the point. While getting in, another couple told us there were several around the rocks on the beach. So we spent a little time looking and just saw the one. When we swam out to the point and joined the Turtle Town boats, we saw 8 more. Two just on the bottom sand; one of the parked partially under rocks, and one very large guy just out on sandy bottom (about 25’ down but visibility is great and it’s like he is just out of reach). We could see the groups of people and knew there were more. We saw one parked on corals, and one (turned out to be two) swimming with groups of people watching. Sometimes it just seems like maybe they take turns entertaining the crowds. I watched this for a while. Then I turned to find Mrs. Qoheleth, and when I swam over to her, there were two more parked on corals. I saw one other swimming away from corals out toward sandy area. We continued for quite a while; it was hard to quit. This was another day of bright sun on the corals making them come alive and shine. Great visibility. Finally we came to shore to have breakfast.
We do plan at least one other snorkel right here before lunch, but we are in no hurry. Just another day in Paradise. I’ll report the second snorkel a little later…. So it’s later, and I get to report and afternoon swim/snorkel at Poolenlalena with no fewer than six turtles {Total: 42}. There is every possibility that some of those six are some of the same 8 we saw in the morning swim. They don’t have to move much here in Turtle Town. They just stay on this point; they get mornings with boats and kayaks and sometimes shore swimmers like us joining them, and it looks every bit like they just enjoy entertaining crowds. So, Mrs. Qoheleth and I swam out and, once again, we saw one turtle on our way out to the point. He had gas. Really. Lots of bubbles emanating from is hind quarters. So, little known fact, sea turtles have gas (maybe he ate a high carb version of algae on top of some other protein - thus generating gas). Also, we saw what canon only be turtle turds floating right behind him. We did not continue to follow him too long. Perhaps he came around the point to take care of business. So we continued around the the point where all of the corals and turtles live. We saw two on bottom. We saw two (resting on corals). The three on the corals pretty much just saw there, but the two resting on bottom came up and swam around. They were joined by another, for a total of three swimming right with us. Three swimming right off the corals to our right and three resting on corals to our left. Six all in one view. This is pretty hard to beat. After the second swim, we sat for quite a while longer, and I waked the beach from end to end and we played a little in the waves and then we walked the beach from end to end together. All told, by the time we asked ourselves if it was time to go home, we had spend about six hours on this beach (good thing we had and umbrella for shade and good chairs). Two snorkels, 14 turtles, six hours of play on the beach. We went home fairly tired and soaked in the hot tub until time to think about dinner. Good day.
23 Thursday
This day did not turn, weather wise, into a good day to snorkel (South side of paradise looked better, but from where we are that would take planning ahead. Also, further north on this west side it was not recommended to go at all. Where we are it would have been good only early). We planned a sleep in, and we were able to connect via technology to our child traveling on the other side of this planet. After our long call, the wind had picked up. Mrs. Qoheleth was also not feeling 100%, and this day turned into a rest, walk, recuperate, dip in the pool, and recover type of day. The turtles will be there tomorrow or the next day.
24 Friday
Again, the weather in West Paradise was not good for water activities. For the northern end of West Paradise, the Snorkel Report gave the lowest possible rating and a warning to just stay out of the water — not quite so be for western West Paradise, but still not a day for water activity. Interestingly, the report for South Paradise is pretty good (it’ll be windy and bouncy seas in the afternoon). So we did the South Paradise car and lunch pack up. And here we are at Poolenalena beach (some places don’t get old). We finished a morning snorkel that featured 8 turtles {Total: 50} and a Spotted Eagle Ray (we again joined a Turtle Town board, and I heard a guy call out the “spotted eagle ray” name or I would have simply said a large manta ray). Mrs. Qoheleth has commented at least twice since we emerged from the water on the corals and canyons and colors here and how this spot is unbeatable. And I agree. Seven titles in the canyons and corals — 4 swimming and three resting. One diver from the Turtle Town boat taking pictures with a ( selfie) stick — probably getting great pictures because the water clarity and sunshine were perfect. We decided to check out rock outcroppings near the beach on the swim back and saw one other lone turtle swimming in the surf very close to shore. Only one snorkel at Poolenalena beach today as wind picked up making the sea a little busy. So we just beached it — sunning, wave bouncing, walking, reading enjoying. Tried to catch sunset at the lookout near the isthmus, but we didn’t time it quite right plus clouds kept it from being as beautiful as it often is. Another day in paradise is complete.
25 Saturday
Once again weather going to be windy, cloudy and there is a swell making the ocean here unsettled. But early, conditions looked better so we took an early snorkel right here at Kahakeli. It was worth it. We saw 5 turtles. One really large one we saw swimming south, and again we saw him swimming north on the return. We saw four others {Total: 55}. One parked on bottom and then three swimming. Two of these we saw swimming with a seal. Yes a seal! This is something we have never seen before. Watching a turtle, I saw a large shape. I was trying to identify it. Was it a dolphin. He was floating, and I saw the tail down. But it was hardly moving. I had a brief thought that could it be an injured dolphin? As I was wondering, Mrs. Qoheleth called out, “That’s a seal!” We don’t usually talk much snorkeling, but wow. We watched him a while wondering if we were too close (maybe 20 yards away?). After a while he parked himself in some sand surrounded by rocks in the bottom. We watched for a while. Then we swam on (very mixed feelings; one doesn’t want to, on the other hand I was a little nervous about being near it). We finished, and swam farther south. The we swam back to get out, and when we did we swam near that same spot. He again surfaced and floated. This time there was another person nearby and we heard him call out “That’s a seal!” That was our big adventure today. But we also drove all the way around the northern end enjoying the sites (and navigating the one lane sections), and we hiked in Makawao Forest reserve in upcountry, and it was beautiful.
26 Sunday
We didn’t snorkel today. We hung by the pool, did a little shopping and relaxed. We had to return our snorkel gear today so I suppose the snorkeling part of the adventure is done. We had planned the snorkel dolphin watch trip to Lanai, but we ended up canceling on this. You have to save something for next time.
27 Monday
We got up early for a hike in Waihe’e Forest Reserve. It was a drive over to the east side of paradise, and we found the parking lot early enough to get a place. It’s popular enough that there is overflow parking (which would increase the climb considerably as it’s DOWN the road a ways). As it was, we climbed 2.5 miles (five round trip) and a climb of 2500 feet to the top of Mount ‘Eke in the west paradise mountains. Very nice views. A good hike. Afterwards we found lunch at the Ula Ula plantation and they opened a fresh coconut for us to drink, and then they split it so you can eat the meat on the inside. A very good day to end the adventure.
28 Tuesday
All good things come to an end. Today we fly home. Sine I’m counting snorkel finds here is the summary. 55 turtles sighted. 3 rays sighted. 1 eel (perhaps more but they disappear quickly). Numerous fishes of many varieties. Sea cucumbers (no counts). And one Hawaiian Monk Seal! And we survived. We later saw an advisory stating, “if you see a seal, exit the water.” It was quite a good adventure. We fly home soon and will see our puppy tomorrow (unfortunately, flights home from paradise are overnight). We are already thinking of how and when we can return.